论文标题:制度冲突与服饰变迁
Institutional Conflict and Vicissitude of Costume
论文作者 杨小洁
论文导师 刘少杰,论文学位 硕士,论文专业 社会学
论文单位 吉林大学,点击次数 114,论文页数 41页File Size2018k
2004-04-01论文网 http://www.lw23.com/lunwen_291818697/ 蔡元培,法国,大学院,大学区
Cai Yuanpei; France; University Council; Academy
社会转型是一个复杂的系统工程，经济体制的转轨、政治制度的变革、文化观念的更新均与社会转型相伴随。以往有关社会转型的研究更多侧重于对经济与政治结构的研究，而从人的自我意识变迁这一微观心理层面入手的研究不多。本文意图通过对服饰变化与自我意识变迁的考察，来探讨自我意识在社会转型过程中的变迁轨迹。 本文主要探讨的是从20世纪60年代到当代大学生服饰的变化所体现的自我意识的变迁。服饰的变化和社会转型密切相关，是个人在社会转型中自我意识变迁的外在表达。社会结构的变迁影响人们的自我意识，而自我意识又决定着人的着装行为。因此，从人们着装这个角度研究人们的自我定位，自我意识的清楚认知具有现实意义。大学生阶层对于社会转型所带来的变化和压力最为敏感，他们对自我意识的自省最为深刻。通过对这一群体服饰变化的个案研究，试图从一个新的角度来理解社会转型的内涵。 本文主要梳理了下列相关理论：社会转型方面的理论为本文研究提供一个宏观背景；符号互动理论为我们把握和理解自我意识提供思路；服饰文化理论让我们对服饰变化有一个学理上的理解和把握；而语言社会学的研究则为我们提供了研究方法上的参考和灵感。 在理论文献回顾的基础上我提出了以下理论假设： 1、社会转型过程中出现了正式制度与非正式制度的冲突，导致大学生自我意识的变化，而自我意识的变化会反映在服饰变迁上。 2、大学生群体穿着服装和自我意识的变化反映出所置身的社会的经济、文化、政治、制度的特点。 本文结合相关文学作品的个案描述和实地调查的访谈资料，采用个案研究的分析方法，从制度冲突角度和符号学角度勾勒了社会转型背景下大学生的服饰变迁和自我意识变化的互动关系，实际上是试图从一个微观的角度来研究社会转型。社会转型是一个宏观的结构转型和变迁的过程，对其研究大多从宏观的结构层面出发，本文意图通过自我意识擅变这一微观角度，达到对社会转型的一种新的解释和理解。人的行动和社会结构是一个双向建构的过程，人的行动在社会结构的制约中不断生成新的社会结构，而人的行动受自我意识支配，因而自我意识与社会结构就因社会行动而架起了桥梁。 本文从自我意识变迁的角度来理解和透视社会结构的转型，是一种有益的尝试。本文理论阐述上还很粗糙，本文的研究方法以及所选择个案的有效性和普适性还有探讨的空间。这一切都还有待在日后的学习和研究历程中进一步思考和锤炼。
Social transformation is a complex system project, including the transformation of economic system, the change of political institution and the renewal of cultural idea. Most of research for social transformation focused on the exploration of macro-structure and micro-factor, related to economic and political structure, and seldom of them began their discussion in the micro perspective of transformation of people"s self-consciousness. This dissertation tries to discuss the change locus of self-consciousness in the process of social transformation through the exploration to the change of costume and self-consciousness. To describe the clear venation of people"s self-consciousness, with the research for costume change in the background of social transformation, do have the theoretical meaning and influential power to remove the confliction between macro and micro.This paper mainly discusses the self-consciousness change embodied by contemporary intellectual"s costume change from 1960 years in 20 century. Intellectual stratum, relative to other social stratum, is more sensitive to the change and pressure brought by social transformation, and they have the deepest self-questioning to their self-consciousness. In this paper, the author tries to understand and interpret the nature of social transformation in a new perspective through the case research for the costume change in this group. This paper reveals the people"s gradual socialization in society according to intellectual"s costume change over the years, regarding intellectual"sdressing behavior and custom as the research object. The change of costume is the external embodiment of self-consciousness and the expression of self-identification. Due to its close correlation with social transformation, costume change is the external expression of individual"s self-consciousness in social transformation. The transforming of social structure influence people"s self-consciousness, which further determines people"s dressing behavior. As a result, it will have actual meaning to research for people"s clear cognition of self-orientation and self-consciousness in the perspective of dressing and costume.This paper mainly clears some relative theories below: social transforming theory provides macro background, and symbol-interaction theory offer thinking for grasping and understanding self-consciousness, and costumes make us have a clear understanding about costume change, and language sociology support us in methodological reference and inspiration.I give some theoretical hypotheses based on theoretical literature review:1, the confliction between formal and informal institution in the process of social transformation results in the intellectual"s change in self-consciousness, which is embodied by the costume change.2, social transformation will inevitably cause the position change of intellectual stratum, leading to the change of self-consciousness which is embodied by the costume change.With the combination of case description in relative literature works and interview materials in field research, this paper draws the outline of relationship between intellectual"s costumes change andself-consciousness change in the background of social transformation in the institutional conflicting and semiologic perspective through the method of case research analysis, which actually is trying to research social transformation in a micro perspective. Although most of researches study social transformation in macro structural perspective due to its macro structure transformation and vicissitude process, however, this paper tries to acquire a new kind of understanding and interpretation on social transformation in the micro perceptive of self-consciousness change. People"s behavior and social structure is one process of mutually establishing, in which people"s behavior continuously create new social structure under the limitation of social structure, whereas people"s behavior is controlled by self-consciousness, which bridges self-consciousness and social structure with the
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